Touching the Promised Land 18 | Day 7 – INTRO
FAITH, FORTRESS, AND HOPE FOR PEACE
Though I had logged over 20,000 steps up and down the Mount of Olives on Day 6, a profound sense of reverent awe kept me wide awake long past my regular bedtime. Tracing the sacred paths of Christian history on the hillside, I came to a quiet awareness of being touched by the Divine. It revealed how Christ’s enduring love and sacrifice still move human hearts—inspiring generations not only to proclaim the Good News, but to painstakingly safeguard the living records and historic footprints of His journey.
It may also have been the sheer weight of history in my immediate surroundings that kept sleep at bay. I was staying at the historic King David Hotel, a silent witness to both the dramatic birth of the modern nation and the enduring complexities of peace. I was barely a kilometre away from the Dome of the Rock, the Western Wall, and the ancient, beating heart of the Old City of Jerusalem.
With sleep still far off, I opened my ThinkPad to browse the webpages I had saved during my pre-trip preparation—using the quiet midnight hour to reflect and map out the journey ahead.
Highlights
According to the itinerary provided by the travel agency, Day 7 was scheduled for just two stops: Masada and Bethlehem, the latter lying within Area A of the Palestinian West Bank. However, checking the route and timings on Google Maps, I felt there would be ample time to also visit Hebron—home to the Cave of the Patriarchs (Machpelah)—as well as Battir, a UNESCO World Heritage site whose lush, terraced hillsides serve as a living testament to why Scripture so often calls this "a land flowing with milk and honey."
When I met my guide the next morning, I shared my wish to cover Masada, Bethlehem, Battir, and Hebron in one day. While understanding, he was initially hesitant. Nevertheless, he was kind enough to contact his agency on my behalf—a good lad.
Long story short, security constraints ultimately kept me from visiting Hebron, leaving me with a sense of genuine regret. Yet, looking back, perhaps such unexpected roadblocks are themselves an authentic encounter with the complex daily reality of the modern 'Promised Land.'
Later that evening, while researching further, I learned that the Cave of the Patriarchs lies in Hebron’s Old City—a place of sharp, daily friction between Palestinians and Israeli settlers, some living in a tense "vertical neighbourhood," stacked floor-by-floor in mutual resentment. It left me with a heavy heart. I could only pray that, one day, "He will wipe every tear from their eyes. There will be no more death or mourning or crying or pain, for the old order of things has passed away." (Revelation 21:4)
Thankfully, my guide did manage to make the visit to Battir possible after Bethlehem, for which I remain deeply grateful.
Sites Visited on Day 7
1. The King David Hotel
While Jerusalem boasts many modern, well-appointed hotels, the King David Hotel stands apart as a unique witness to the dramatic birth of the modern State of Israel.
Each morning, looking out from my room on the fifth floor in the hotel's North Wing, my eyes traced the historic skyline—taking in the domes, towers, and ancient stones of the Old City through my camera lens, quietly contemplating a city that has endured for millennia.
Architecturally, the exterior of the hotel resembles the solid stone, neo-classical edifices of 1920s and 30s Europe (bearing a striking resemblance to the heritage buildings on the Bund in Shanghai, my home city). Yet inside, through every curated detail and understated gesture of hospitality, guests are subtly and constantly reminded of the hotel’s uniquely Jewish heritage and legacy.
2. Masada National Park
Perched dramatically atop an isolated cliff overlooking the desolate beauty of the Judaean Desert and the Dead Sea, Masada stands as an unforgettable monument to Jewish heroism, sacrifice, and the enduring quest for national freedom. Rising abruptly from the barren landscape, this sheer stone fortress brings a vivid, physical reality to King David’s ancient prayer: “Truly my soul finds rest in God; my salvation comes from him. Truly he is my rock and my salvation; he is my fortress, I will never be shaken.” (Psalm 62:1–2)
Originally fortified by King Herod the Great as a luxurious palace complex, this remote plateau became the final refuge for nearly a thousand Jewish zealots resisting Roman tyranny following the fall of Jerusalem in AD 70. Today, Masada is far more than an archaeological marvel of Herodian engineering. As my Jewish guide introduced to me, it stands as a central pillar of modern national identity, encapsulated in the solemn oath sworn by Israeli soldiers on this summit: “Masada shall not fall again.”
3. Bethlehem & The Church of the Nativity
Bethlehem holds an irreplaceable place in Christian devotion as the birthplace of Jesus Christ, our Lord and Saviour. This was one of the most anticipated visits of my journey; yet, entering the city cast a heavy shadow over my spirit. The town is surrounded by towering concrete walls, guarded by armed Israeli soldiers standing in watchtowers high above. Walking into this enclosed enclave, I felt a heavy weight on my heart.
After passing the check point, the driver parked the car as close as possible to the Manger Square, the center of the ancient city, where stands the Church of the Nativity, one of the oldest continuously operating churches in the world, originally commissioned by Emperor Constantine in the 4th century.
Guided by my Palestinian host, I stepped through the famously low 'Door of Humility'—originally a grand Crusader entrance, later shrunken in the Ottoman era to deter looters' carts, humbling every pilgrim who must bow to enter. From there, I walked down the ancient main nave of the church, and then descended into the subterranean Grotto of the Nativity, where a 14-pointed silver star embedded in the marble floor marks the traditional spot of the Incarnation.
Surrounded by the towering West Bank separation wall and modern political complexities, Bethlehem remains a poignant juxtaposition of timeless spiritual light and present-day human tension.
4. Battir
My Jewish guide confirmed to me the detour to Battir en route from Masada to Bethlehem, just before he parted ways with me and our Arab Israeli driver. We then proceeded toward Bethlehem, and later, on to Battir. This UNESCO World Heritage site embodies the ancient agricultural landscape of the Promised Land—a vivid, living illustration of the biblical "land flowing with milk and honey."
Located in Areas B and C of the West Bank, just 20 minutes from Bethlehem, Battir offered a striking contrast to the heavy scenes of separation I had just encountered. Walking through its ancient stone terraces and Roman-era irrigation systems, I marveled at the timeless beauty of the land and the legacy of human care, finding in this village a gentle reminder that peace is still achievable with goodwill on both sides.
Reflecting on the day's journey, I noted a quiet irony. Navigating a land divided by checkpoints and towering walls required a coordinated effort across political borders. No fewer than four travel entities worked in tandem to make my 10-day trip possible: the primary agency I contracted at home, the local Jordanian and Israeli sub-contractors who managed my travels east and west of the Jordan, and the Palestinian agency that supported my visit to Bethlehem and Battir.
In a region marked by separation, these diverse groups formed a functional network, showing that practical cooperation remains possible despite the local divisions.
Touching the Promised Land 19 | Day 7 – King David Hotel
SILENT WITNESS OF TURBULENT HISTORY
While the King David Hotel offers the exceptional dining, amenities, and service expected of Jerusalem’s finest heritage hotels, it is far more than a place to stay. It remains a silent witness to the turbulent geopolitical shifts of the early 20th century, capturing the dawn of a modern nation forged after thousands of years in exile and the tragedy of genocide.
Resting in the quiet luxury of its grand lobby, one can almost hear the echoes of British Mandatory rule, clandestine diplomacy, tragic violence, and historic triumph whispering from the ancient limestone walls.
[ to be continued ]
PREVIOUS NEXT