Touching the Promised Land 03 | Day 1 - HAIFA
- Regina Liu
- Sep 6, 2025
- 6 min read
Updated: Jan 17
A CITY OF COEXISTENCE & BEAUTY
Highlights
Haifa is nestled between the Mediterranean Sea and the slopes of Mount Carmel. This mountain is mentioned multiple times in the Bible, and a monastery commemorating the prophet Elijah stands upon it. The book of 1 Kings (chapter 18) records how Elijah, unafraid of royal authority, confronted King Ahab:
“It is not I who have brought trouble on Israel,” he said, “but you and your father’s family. You have abandoned the Lord’s commands and have followed the Baals.” He then challenged the prophets of Baal on Mount Carmel, where the Lord’s consuming fire proved He alone is God, leading to the execution of the false prophets (1 Kings 18:20-40). This profound spiritual battle unfolded in this very landscape.
This trip's first UNESCO World Heritage site is in Haifa: the Bahá’í Holy Places. The site encompasses the Shrine of the Báb and the stunning terraced Bahá'í Gardens. Often compared to a modern "Hanging Gardens," these gardens cascade down Mount Carmel towards the azure Mediterranean, a sight of both grandeur and exquisite beauty.
Bahá'í Gardens, German Colony, and Haifa Harbour cascading the slope of Mount Carmel
Knowing Israel only from distant news reports, it can be difficult to imagine different faiths coexisting harmoniously. Yet, daily life in Haifa offers a glimmer of this hope, undoubtedly rooted in the city's diverse population and economy. It is a significant centre for Judaism, Islam, Christianity, and the Bahá'í and Druze communities. It is said that the call from mosque loudspeakers no longer clashes with church bells; the mutual respect evident in everyday life lends a profound peace to this beautiful coastal city, inspiring in both visitors and residents a hope for broader reconciliation.
The prehistoric UNESCO site of Mount Carmel was quite nearby. However, constrained by time and our trip's thematic focus on the biblical era and beyond, we had to make the difficult choice to leave it—along with the ascent to Mukhraqa, which commemorates Elijah's victory over the prophets of Baal—for a future visit. In the end, our time in Haifa offered just a small taste, a mere preliminary exploration. The rest? Well, I suppose some stories are meant to be continued. There simply must be a next time!
Sightseeing Notes
After entering Haifa, we drove along Yefe Nof Street and got off near the Bahá'í Gardens' entrance. To fully appreciate the setting, we first crossed to the Louis Promenade for a panoramic view before stepping into the gardens. Pressed for time, I only visited the upper terrace, forgoing the 40-minute guided tour. This saved time would allow for a potential trip to Megiddo later, and also gave me a moment to stroll through the German Colony across the street, enjoy a simple lunch with the locals (who were mostly Arab), and withdraw cash from an ATM (I had taken out little at Tel Aviv airport, and was surprised how many small restaurants still relied on cash—how I missed the cashless convenience of home).
If I have the opportunity to return, I will certainly stay overnight. With more time, I would hope to:
* Explore Mount Carmel – visit the Mukhraqa Monastery and the Druze town of Daliyat al-Karmel, a microcosm of Haifa's diverse harmony, and overlook the vibrant Jezreel Valley, experiencing firsthand the abundance of God's "land flowing with milk and honey."
* Experience Haifa's public transport – Haifa is the only city in Israel with a subway (which looks in pictures like Hong Kong's Peak Tram running through a tunnel) and a cable car.
* Delve into the German Colony – to better understand the Templers' (not the medieval Knights Templar) original faith, unwavering commitment, and their poignant historical fate.
* Enjoy a morning run along the Louis Promenade, or find a terrace restaurant or bar, savouring a pleasant meal while feeling the sea breeze and admiring the view…
Sightseeing Notes
Louis Promenade
This path was donated by the parents of Louis, in memory of their son who died in a car accident at just 19. It is situated above the Bahá'í Gardens on the slopes of Mount Carmel. The autumn sun was brilliant, and a cool breeze rustled the trees… The view over the entire port of Haifa, the city skyline, and the Mediterranean bay was breathtaking, making one linger. On that clear day, with our guide's direction, we could even see Acre on the far side of the crescent-shaped bay.
Viewing Haifa Harbour from Louis Promenade
The Shrine of the Báb and the Bahá'í Gardens
The Shrine of the Báb, built in the 19th century, is a holy site of the Bahá'í Faith and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Had I not prepared for this trip, I might never have consulted Israel's World Heritage list, nor learned of this relatively young religion—the Bahá'í Faith—which is only about 150 years old. I was
unaware it even had followers in my home city of Shanghai. The Bahá'í Faith, sometimes called the "Great Unity Faith," holds that all religions originate from the same God, differing only in their prophets, and promotes the core principles of the "oneness of religion" and the "oneness of humanity."
Our guide told us the faith originated in Iran. The shrine's architect was a Canadian Bahá'í. With resources scarce in the region after WWII, much of the stone was cut and sculpted in Italy before being shipped to Haifa. The gardens were designed in the late 1990s by an Iranian architect, with structural calculations by Israeli engineers, and opened officially in 2001. All costs were covered by donations from Bahá'ís worldwide. Entry requires a security check, but there is no fee.
The German Colony
Standing at the southern end of Ben Gurion Street, one can look up the slope to the Shrine of the Báb, and enter the German Colony below. From the Bahá'í Gardens' upper terrace, the red-roofed buildings mark this historic area. There are many restoration projects and tourist signs; unfortunately, we only passed through briefly, turning onto a side street to find lunch and an ATM.
The German Colony in Haifa began in 1869 with the Templers (distinct from the medieval Knights Templar). These Christian believers from Germany brought advanced urban planning, port construction, and manufacturing technologies. They established several colonies in the Holy Land, hoping to build a homeland and await Christ's Second Coming, contributing significantly to local modernisation. However, during World War II, due to their German nationality, these devout believers were deemed enemy aliens by the British Mandate authorities and were ultimately expelled—a deeply poignant end for individuals unconnected to the horrors of the regime.
Viewing German Colony from the Bahá'í Gardens
Lunch – Beef Pita Shawarma
Haifa's low-lying area near the sea, known locally as the "Lower City," is a predominantly Arab quarter. Our driver, an Arab Christian, took us to his favourite shawarma shop.
Years ago, on a business trip in Germany, a colleague introduced me to this "rotisserie" meat as "Greek cuisine," and I believed it for years. But hearing our Arab driver firmly claim it as his local delicacy, and seeing shawarma shops as ubiquitous as malatang joints in Shanghai, I've since redefined it simply as "popular Levantine street food."
The shop offered chicken, beef, and turkey shawarma—the most common flavours. I ordered a beef pita shawarma (one can also choose a wrap or a plate), with an ice-cold Coke, for less than 30 shekels. As I ate, I constantly wiped the inevitable tahini stains from my mouth and face… my table manners were decidedly at odds with my zodiac sign's elegant image......lol
If Time Permitted …...
Given more time, I would have:
1) Descended the entire length of the Bahá'í Gardens via the guided terrace tour, to fully appreciate its symbology and horticultural precision from top to bottom,
2) Spent a quiet hour in the German Colony, exploring its distinctive Templar architecture and browsing the small boutiques along Ben Gurion Boulevard, and
3) Visited the Stella Maris Monastery, not only for its spiritual significance but for the panoramic view of the bay from its clifftop perch. This time, the view from the top of the gardens had to suffice—a breathtaking but distant panorama, leaving the intimate details for a future visit.
In fact, should I journey this way again, I would stay a night over in the city. This would allow me to complete the UNESCO experience by visiting the Shrine of Bahá’u’lláh in Acre at a leisurely pace and to seek out the spiritual quiet of Elijah’s Cave—a site sacred to three faiths, where the prophet is believed to have found refuge. There is a deeper, more contemplative layer to this region that a single day simply cannot uncover.
Touching the Promised Land 04 | DAY 1 – ACRE
BETWEEN CRUSADER VAULTS & OTTOMAN STREETS
Leaving diverse and harmonious Haifa, we travelled north along the Mediterranean coast, soon arriving at our next destination—Acre, a port city steeped in history. Where Haifa offers modern inclusiveness, Acre is like an open historical epic. Here, the magnificent underground fortresses of the Crusader era lie layered beneath a vibrant, living Ottoman-era Arab city, waiting for us to turn the pages of those chapters sealed by time.
